Quick Reference Chart

[(2 dc, ch 2) twice, 2 dc] in same space

This particular stitch is used only shell sts that design needs to expand in size to add in more (as with pineapple designs) but I thought I should bring it up here even though it is not a fancy looking stitch. In order to add more pineapples you have to make room for another shell. To do this you have to combine two shells without too much bulk; do the following:

[(dc, ch 1) twice, dc, ch 2, (dc, ch 1) twice, dc] in same st/sp/lp

A fan stitch that is very open; 6 dc and ch sps between each. The center sp could also take a ch 3 quite well with or without a picot also and makes a nice little edging for doll's work.

(ch 4, sl st in 3rd ch from hk )3 times, ch 2

This stitch is a decorative bridge from one stitch to another; this is used between other stitches such as a sc and finish with a sc in next st, sp or lp.

[(dc, picot, ch 1) twice, dc] in same st, sp or lp makes a picot fan stitch of 3 dc

A fan stitch variation good for edgings

[(pc, ch 3)2 times, pc] makes a fan of 3 popcorn sts.

A fan stitch variation of pop corn stitches good for design element:

An example of combining different stitches

This takes three rows and is done in the normal way, not the Irish way, to complete but looks very pretty as an edging. The first row working on a chain loop (5 ch) foundation work 9 dc in one loop, next row work a fan st with each dc in a dc. The last row work a sc in first dc and ch-1 sp, (ch-3 picot, sc) in each ch-1 sp and a sc in last dc

Use your fingers like the victorians did or cut a piece of cardboard the width of lp desired. An example of the use of this stitch is in this doll dress.
Make a ch of desired length and sc in each st
Row 1: * Insert hook in next st, holding cardboard in back of work, wind yarn around it from back to front (towards you), catch yarn and pull through st, thread over and complete sc. Repeat from * for each loop. At this point you have the loop st edging.
Row 2: Sc in each lp st. Repeat these 2 rows for pattern.

Row 1: * sc in next 2 sts, (pull up a loop, chain 4 off that loop, and draw through lp on hk, sc in next st) in the next st, rep from * across, cut thread/yarn here and rejoin at the beginning of the row.
Row 2: * sc in next st, point st, sc in next 2 sts across, Alternating the points each row.

Variations of the stitch were Point Neige (ch 3), Point Muscovite (ch 4) and Point Battenberg (ch 6).

This stitch is also called shrimp or crab st

This stitch is one that can cause some to tear their hair out I think. This is so easy to do but because it is so unusual to crochet down the row in a backwards fashion (down the row to the right), it can throw you off.
Insert hook in the stitch to the right, grab the thread (not a usual yo) and pull it through the stitch, under the hook not catching the loop that is on the hook, around to the left and up over the row, yo, and through the two loops on hook.

If you should run short of thread and have to join more thread the way to do this is to join thread with a sl st in the last st made and proceed making your rev sc in the next st.

This little stitch takes one or two sps and requires 2 sts; looks good as an edging or as decoration on a shell row. This stitch needs special handling in that either it need to be worked on the back side of the row or pop the tr up toward you so that the 'knot' is on the right side of the work.
At the end of the row, turn ch 1, sc in next st, (1 tr, 1 sc) in each st or tr in next st, sc in next st, rep across, ending with sc in end st.

This is a lovely stitch, but very loose and so not practical for a lot of things. Looks best as a double knot stitch which is two consecutive knot stitches. Looks good on doilies and doll dresses and shawls and trim.

*Make a lp on hk, draw it out to any given length (about 3 chain or a dc or as specified in pattern), thread over hk and draw through. Insert hook between the lp and the thread which was drawn through, thread over and draw through both lps on hk for a sc. Draw another lp on hook the same length, sc in lp, sk 4 sts, sc in next, repeat from * for desired number of knot sts. To turn, make a 3/8 inch knot.
Row 2: * S c in lp at right of sc  below and sc in lp at left of same sc below, make a knot st, repeat from *. For a lacy effect, draw the lps out quite long and keep the knots (sc) quite small and firm.

This is the a knot stitch lying on it's side. To Make:

Row 1: * draw up a loop same as knot st, thread over hook and pull through lp, insert hook through back of lp just made; thread over and pull through, this makes two loops on hook, thread over hook and draw through the two lps; repeat from *.

Row 2: Draw up loop same as before, remove hook, turn work and insert hook in lp from right; (sc in back lp of half knot st in previous row. Draw up loop and repeat from *.

Example of How to use: Make a foundation chain of 20 sts (multiple of 4). 1st row: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Ch 1, turn. 2nd row: Sc in first 3 sts, * thread over, insert hook in next st and draw up a loop, (thread over, insert hook in same st and draw up a loop) twice (Fig. 20); thread over and draw through all 7 loops on hook.sc in next 3 sts. Repeat from * across. Ch 1, turn. 3rd row: Sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn. Repeat 2nd and 3rd rows alternately for pattern.

This is a cousin to the v-st but it is very lazy and cannot stand up. The lazy v-st is basically (sc, ch 1, dc) in same st
This stitch you can work an extra sc at the beg and end of row and is worked in multiple of 2+1. To increase (inc) work [(sc, ch 1) twice, dc] in same st.

ch 20 and sc in each st (19 sc)
Row 1: * l-st (sc, ch 1, dc) in first st, sk 1, rep from * across row ending with sc in last st, ch 1, turn.
Row 2: L-st in first sc, l-v st in ch-1 sp of each sl v-st from prev row up to the lst st, sc in the ch-1 sp of l-st and last sc, ch 1 turn.